Hey guys, haven't had time to update Vox recently as I'm currently applying for financial aid and seeking housing in preparation for attending grad school!
Come August, I'll begin a Masters of Public Administration at Monterey Institute for International Studies' School for International Policy Studies in sunny, coastal Monterey, California! If all goes as planned, my dad and I will drive cross country (a first for both of us) and arrive in Cali early August.
In the meantime, I'm having a splendid visit to Pittsburgh, celebrating weddings, birthdays, reunions and life in general. It's great to see your home and hometown through new eyes after being away so long, really appreciating what you have. I've been taking photos like a tourist too. Before I post any US photos, I'll try to get my last Asian archives posted from India and a few other excursions.
Here are links to just a few of the photo highlights from the past several months (for those without Facebook). Enjoy!
China II- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2186319&l=15b77&id=7800765
Angkor Wat- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2195069&l=4b9b2&id=7800765
Tokyo I- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2085133&l=a5c1a&id=7800765
Killing Fields/Tuol Sleng- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2204147&l=c0ebd&id=7800765
Vietnam Snake- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2188165&l=99d72&id=7800765
Korean Kids- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2157906&l=4a37c&id=7800765
English Village, Korea- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2083375&l=f9e10&id=7800765
Eric, Liz and I are currently in Jaipur, India. Two nights ago six bombs went off in the historic city centre killing 80 and wounding at over 100 according to media sources. Luckily we were outside of the city at a wedding.
The events of the dual-brother wedding seemed unaffected due to the relative isolation of the village. Loud and celebratory singing, dancing and parading horeseback went on without acknowledging the current events. It didn't seem like anyone was even talking about the bombings much besides us and our city friends with cell phones.
It was a strange feeling and we weren't exactly sure how to react, return to our hotel in the city for safety or stay in a rural village with strangers for safety? We tried our best and enjoyed what we could of the energetic wedding, despite the uncomfortable feeling of helplessness in a time of disaster.
After the bombs exploded near a temple popular to locals and tourists, the city was put under a curfew and we were not permitted to reenter with our Indian friends. Our generous new acquaintances graciously allowed us to stay at their home in a village about about an hour from the city. We were set up with several others on a rooftop with roll-out mattress pads and blankets.
The night was quiet and we didn't wake up until the sun and some peacocks began to interrupt our slumber. Around 7am we were informed that the city was open until the 9 AM o'clock curfew was enforced once again. We left in our tuk-tuk (three wheeled motorcycle with cart) and made it back to The Hotel Pearl Palace by 8:30. Eric and I decided to get a ride to the city center to see the aftermath firsthand before the curfew restricted our mobility.
Several drivers denied us before one finally agreed to take us there and back quickly before the curfew began. The downtown area was chaotic and looked like a bomb had hit in many places, but in fact, this is often the case in many dilappidated urban areas I've found. When we arrived at the site security was heavy and media was in full force. our closest glimpse of the bombing was a destroyed car, being marveled at by bystanders. A reporter for the New York Times asked us a few questions and then we quickly left the site to avoid problems.
The rest of the day was spent on our rooftop lounge and restaurant where a handful of foreigners discussed what they thought was going on. We still don't know the whole story, but the media reports speculate that the bombings were executed by terrorists reacting to religious tensions between Hindus and Muslims in the area. Two men have been arrested in relation to the bombings and the news continues to speculate their motives.
The good news is that we're safe and excited to be moving on to the next destination, Udaipur, after an eventful visit in Jaipur, The Pink City. Our best wishes and condolences go out to the families of the victims.
http://afp.google.com/article/ALeqM5jz7yxEZQ_BCOGv_2ewCTS___TtDw
Following a day in the beachy city of Nha Trang we split from our European travel mates Hilde and Pascal, who headed for Da Lat in the Southern Highlands to trek and visit minority villages. After a few hours in the bus and a noodly lunch break surrounded by the red sand dune beaches of Mui Ne and we made our way to our final Vietnamese destination, Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon before the fall of South Vietnam to the north in 1975.
The city residents still regularly refer to the city as Saigon and the history of the city is well documented in the museums and Presidential Palace we visited. However, the people we met showed no animosity towards three Americans wandering around the city.
Reunification Palace: Historic dwelling of the former president
of South Vietnam during war time. Formerly known as "Independence
Palace". The palace was bombed by North Vietnamese and the giant hole
in the roof of the palace remains.
The War Remnants Museum: This museum was chilling, haunting. The stories of land mine victims, prisoners of war and innocent victims combat are graphically told by shocking stories and photos. As patrons walk from exhibit to exhibit there is total silence in the building which also houses old tanks and military artifacts. The museum is almost entirely in black and white and the surrounding courtyard houses "tiger cages", which were cells used to contain and torture POWs and several exhibits showing the history of the war from a humanitarian perspective.
Dinner at Pilar's Family's House: Pilar, my Vietnamese friend from JMU and summer abroad in Spain suggested that we visit her family's home in Saigon. It was the second anniversary of her grandfathers death and it was a special occasion at their house. Surprisingly, after a brief prayer ceremony, her uncle invited us to join the seemingly jubilant party. It was a huge family affair and the they offered Theresa and I more food, drink and cheer than we could handle. The meal was at least five courses, including a seafood hotpot, several unique finger foods, homemade spring rolls, large prawns and several other specialties I can't type or pronounce. We paid tribute to her fallen grandfather and another deceased family member by bringing a suggested kilo of apples. It was a small price to pay.
The next morning we left for Phnom Penh, Cambodia...
The bus ride from Hue to Hoi An featured impressive mountain, countryside and seaside views. Hoi An is a calm and scenic port town near the center of Vietnam known for fine cuisine and trade of fabrics, particularly silk. The prices are so low that you are likely to buy things that you don't need or even want, i.e. custom-made cowboy boots and silk dragon print boxer shorts.
Our wandering fivesome (down one from Hue) enjoyed a cooking course, motorcycling to the beach and Marble Mountain and some bargain shopping. I had three items made, blue cargo pants that zip into shorts, a nice standard business suit with subtle pin stripes and a pair of silk dragon-print boxer shorts. Eric had boots made, Pascal had a Vietnamese hat made with his name embroidered on it and the ladies did their thing.
One of the highlights of our stay in Hoi An was taking a cooking course where we learned to make local specialties such as spring rolls, beef and pork lemongrass skewers and grilled fish wrapped in a banana leaf. Another highlight was our very authentic feeling "ancient family guesthouse", as it was advertised.
Our attempts to make Vietnamese friends in Hoi An were fruitless. We had an invitation to a birthday party, which turned out to be a questionable money-making scheme and a Vietnamese acquaintance joined us for a day motorbiking up the coast, climbing, beaching and playing volleyball and then asked us for a tip after we had invited him to join us out of courtesy. Needless to say miscommunication has become an everyday reality of life on the road.
From Hanoi to Saigon, we sampled a wide variety of transport, accommodation and dining. Here are a few of the high, and low lights...
Transport
Tuk-tuk: Slow four person covered carts pulled by a motorcycle. Generally cheap and pleasant for siteseeing but not ideal for long distance travel. Supposedly these guys get some of the lowest wages in the working class.
Cyclo: The bicycle version of a tuk-tuk seating one or two. Slower and more indulgent. Typically used by honeymooners and very large foreigners.
Overnight Train: I used one from Shanghai to Guangzhou and another from Guilin to Hanoi. Great for meeting travelers and watching the world pass by. Comfortable but not quite on the same level as Europe or Japan.
Overnight Bus: Inexpensive and uncomfortable but often worth the savings. Generally to be avoided, especially on poorly paved roads. Get the back seat where you can spread out with up to five friends.
Junkers: Old wooden boats chartered by tour groups navigating the Halong Bay. We slept on ours on the deck under the stars and surrounded by glow in the dark sea creatures. Kayaks are also great for exploring the bay.
Accommodation
Minh A's Ancient Guesthouse: A picturesque old home in the heart of Hoi An with friendly service and a great view of the outdoor market. It was worth the heat and bugs at night, but not to our Chinese friend Liao Min, who left before sunrise.
Overnight Train and Bus: See above.
Hanoi Backpackers Hostel: Awesome travelers haven in the French Quarter of downtown. Great ambiance, solid take a book-leave a book collection and an excellent rooftop happy hour BBQ.
Couchsurfing: My personal favorite. Had a ball in Yangshuo with Simona, but almost spent the night in the streets after losing my host. (www.couchsurfing.com <---register now and catch a wave, my username is drfreebird)
Dining
Soursop: A sweet, juicy and spikey giant green fruit. Pretty good as a refreshing afteroon beverage.
Durian: Notoriously stinky. The fruit is best described by this excerpt by Alfred Russel Wallace http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durian.
Tarantula: Fried with a little seasoning. Disappointing. Similar to seahorse, cricket or scorpion.
Fish cooked in a Banana Leaf, Pork & Beef on Lemongrass Skewers and Spring Rolls: Prepared for us by us in our cooking course in Hoi An. Delicious.
After a long and rather uncomfortable ride overnight from Hanoi to Huế, Eric, Theresa, Jade, Pascal, Hildegaard and myself arrived at our cozy and affordable guesthouse. The sun was very hot that afternoon but, determined to discover the city, we wasted no time renting motorbikes and beginning our exploration of the historic Vietnamese cultural capitol and former front line during the Vietnam/American War.
My first impression of the city was that the place was much more amiable than Hanoi. I felt more confident riding a motorcycle and the countryside and breathing room seemed within reach, unlike in the northern urban center. Most people know of Huế as a city which divided Northern and Southern Vietnam and as the site of the infamous "Tet Offensive". However, we found that there was much more to this legendary town.
Historic- Tombs, pagodas, monuments and expansive imperial grounds surround the Citadel and Forbidden City, once occupied by The Nguyễn Lords, a feudal dynasty which dominated much of southern Vietnam from the 17th to the 19th century. Our visit to the UNESCO site gave us a glimpse into the former glory of this once powerful center. Read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thien_Mu_Pagoda to learn more about Thich Quang Duc the internationally recognized Vietnamese Mahayana Buddhist monk who burned himself to death at a busy Saigon road intersection on June 11, 1963.
Scenic- The Perfume River, rural flavors and calm coastline made Huế a very pleasant stop on our ride down the spine of Vietnam. We enjoyed a private evening cruise down the river and colorful days and nights exploring on motorcycles the local people and markets. Kind and beautiful locals offered us food. From a well-known blind restaurant owner to rural family picnicking by a stream, we enjoyed great food in warm surroundings.
Tragic- Although the city was host to some of the most controversial and bloody parts of the Vietnam-American War, the city seems to have moved on and is now growing and looking quite nice.
I initially went to Vietnam and "Indochina" with great curiosity, intrigue and uncertainty. We found the people to be very accepting in general and rather social, especially when making a sale. With my Uncle Jackie in mind, a Vietnam War vet who had spent time in this area, I've thought a lot on the outcomes of the Vietnam-American War (as they call it here) and war in general recently.
Having lived on borders between North and South Korea and Guatemala and El Salvador and walking the fragile lines which once divided Germany and Vietnam, plus meeting people from both sides of each, I can say I've had some time to contemplate these representative international conflicts. I encourage those who have the time and interest, to seriously consider all sides of the story on a case by case basis.
As an American citizen traveling abroad you encounter myriad opinions and perspectives on our world. Listening and sharing is a simple exercise which can help to prevent these types of conflicts in the future. So far this trip has had an incredible impact on me and my perspective of "our" role in international relations. The easiest and best way to be a great diplomat is just to live and learn, respect others, enjoy the natural beauty that surrounds and is in all people, an unavoidable lesson which one encounters when traveling through such war torn territories.
In closing, thanks to all the people who contribute to peaceful living on planet Earth, past, present and future, especially the innocent who have been affected by unfortunate circumstances out of their control and the brave who have the courage to defend such innocence.
From Hanoi, Eric, myself and a crew of about twelve seafaring travels set to spend three days and two nights in the legendary Halong Bay. The karst limestone formations from Southern China extend far into Southeast Asia and into the Bay east of Haiphong, Vietnam.
We left early in the morning and were on our "junker" boat by noon. Our seamates included a French couple and a single, some young Danish gentlemen, a Canadian, a Spaniard from Madrid and our soon to be travel partners from Austria, Holland, England and India.
Our tour guides entertained us with broken English and surprising folklore about The Bay. Our group was quite social and enjoyed sunning on the deck between stops. Our visits on day one included an amazing vast system of caverns a cruise to a floating market and an overnight stargazing fiesta which was highlighted by flourescent sealife coming out at night as we lounged on the upper deck.
The next day we went kayaking and visited "Monkey Island", where we had close encounters with the rare primates and Eric had a personal bond with a curious monkey. We took a trek to an amazing mountain view in the afternoon and met a few other friendly travelers from other groups.
That night we stayed on Cat Ba Island and enjoyed an evening of karaoke. I belted out a personal best rendition of "Joy to the World" and we all enjoyed Vietnamese versions of American classics and the karaoke standards we all love. The seafood was good, the excursions were one of a kind and the company was a blast.
Our return to Hanoi the next day was a bit slow, but we were encouraged to keep hopes up as our overnight bus would take us to the ancient capital of Hue that eve.
There's a district in Hanoi for everything, clothing, artwork, spare parts and apparently snake. We arrived at the recommended restaurant Linh Linh which specialized in the slithery dish but was surprisingly empty. Our hosts hurried us in and began to show show off their collection of live and bottled preserved snakes and other culinary oddities.
Without hesitating this old man pulled out a writhing cobra and demonstrated that there was nothing to fear as it lunged and hissed relentlessly. Before we knew it they were cutting the cobras stomach open and extracting the blood, heart and bile, which would soon become parts of our meal.
The snake was prepared in front of us on a spit and then fried. Before we could indulge in the main dish, we had to prove ourselves by taking shots of the blood and bile (see photo).
The still beating heart was left for one lucky man. I never intended on stealing the spotlight, but when nobody was as eager to eat the snake heart as when we first set out to dine, someone had to step up.
It took me a moment to compose myself, then another to grab the pulsing heart with chopsticks. I dropped it several times before I got a good grip and threw the bite-size heart into my mouth. By request I gave it a few good chews before I washed it down with the snakes blood mixed with vodka.
I'll be honest, it tasted like nothing. The adrenaline numbed my mind and taste buds and I quivered before finally swallowing. The snake heart made everything else seem like cheesecake. The night didn't end until we'd accumulated a long list of exotic foods under our belts. The fried snake skin and "ribs", frog and dog meat, not to mention bear penis wine, were all child's play after the beating heart.
(I have the videos in my possession but the internet is too slow to upload them here. For now, they'll remain in the vaults.)
Crossing the Chinese/Vietnamese border was a smooth process. I stopped in the Vietnamese border city of Lang Son for a bite to eat and to catch a southbound bus to Hanoi. My first lesson in handling aggressive Vietnamese merchants began the moment I got off the bus. Salespeople pushing rickshaw rides, shoe shines, anything on a stick and even themselves approach foreigners, with dollar (or Chinese Yuan) signs in their eyes, as they exit incoming buses. At incredibly low prices it's hard to resist even the most unnecessary of purchases.
A man with a Vietnamese look and British accent called me over to where he was sitting sipping a coffee. You could tell that he noticed a foreigner in need from experience. "Douglass" asked how he could help and I told him my plan to get to Hanoi and meet Eric. We exchanged stories and he let me call my sister Sara to wish her a happy birthday (a day late) from his sharp-looking international phone.
Douglass was not your average vendor living on the border, looking to take tourists for a ride, literally. This man had a story to tell and he made sure that I listen by offering drinks, introducing me to the local cuisine and people and showing me around his small picturesque hometown (I'd soon learn that accepting this offer is usually a 50/50 crap shoot).
Doug's mother was Vietnamese, his father Chinese. He was born during the Sino-Vietnamese or "Third Indochina War" in a time when the two countries fought over land and lives and ethnic Chinese in Vietnam were stripped of their citizenship. Born in China, raised in Vietnam was a crime at the time and Douglass was forced to seek refuge abroad or face violence and persecution, perhaps death. Luckily the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees offered Douglass and his family citizenship in the participating UN member country of their choice after they narrowly escaped to Hong Kong by row boat.
Douglass and his family were separated for years, he went to London, other family members to the US and Australia. It had been years since he'd returned to Lang Son and he said that even now he faced discrimination based on his appearance and accent. Amazed by his will to survive, Doug had a captive audience in me but I refused his offer to stay a few days in my second border town detour and insisted on continuing south.
After he got me a local rate on a shuttle to Hanoi, bought me the last drink I'd accept and waited patiently for my departure, Doug assured me we'd meet in Hanoi and I would have the chance to return his hospitality. My first social encounter in Vietnam turned out to be an eye-opener and a pleasant surprise. Doug and I never met in Hanoi.
Shortly following where I left off in the last entry I was southbound, heading to Hanoi to meet Eric on an overnight train from Guilin.
Everything was going smoothly. I had three nice cabinmates, a 20something couple from England and a friendly Swiss-Italian gentleman named Enzo. We had a few stops on our way, but I should have woken up in Hanoi the next morning meeting Eric shortly thereafter... should've.
At some point in the AM, not sure exactly when, we had to check our Visas and passports to leave China and enter Vietnam. Eric and I had estimated our departure/arrival times for the Visa attempting to maximize our 30-day allowance in the country. Unfortunately I was ahead of schedule. My Vietnamese tourist Visa was not valid for another three days!
I had to get off the train in the pitch black night and find a hostel in a small Chinese bordertown called "Pingxiang". Luckily the Chinese police sent me off with two very kind men who spoke English and knew a cheap place to sleep. The next two-plus days I spent in Pingxiang making the most of my time in a city where few foreigners had seen much more than the inside of a train station from a window, if that.
It was too far to turn back to a major tourist destination, so my visit to Pingxiang was basically "killing time". I set out to explore the small city and find an internet cafe when a boy yelled to me "Welcome to China" from across the street. I said thanks, smiled and continued my search. Later I passed the same wandering youngster. He directed me towards the internet cafe with his broken English and I paid for our "cyclo" ride (a motorcycle that pulls a wagon behind).
"Wang Lun" turned out to be a very sociable guy. After the internet cafe my 20 year old friend and I went for lunch, on me. Now many a traveler would be skeptical in this situation, but I had nothing to lose, a few Chinese Yuan here and there were worth an afternoon of companionship. Wang Lun later offered to show me his small residence outside of town. When we got there a group of young boys were anxiously waiting for us. Following some brief introductions, we decided to climb a nearby mountain and visit the humble local temple.
I spent all afternoon with these young gentlemen, climbing, playing cards, sampling the local market, exchanging English for Chinese and telling stories. When it was time for us to part, I found a cheap hostel, but could not find my bank card! I mentally retraced my steps and tried to avoid thoughts of betrayal by the young boys. Because the Chinese currency, the Yuan, cannot be exchanged legally outside the country I had converted almost all my money. With no bank card, no cash and no travelmates to rely on, I could've been stuck in Pingxiang indefinitely.
The next day I went back to the village where I knew I could find the young guys, some in school, others hanging out after a night of work. Long story short, they all were very worried about my card. They helped me retrace our steps and eventually we found it at the Bank of China, where it had been left in the ATM and held by a kind banker. I was relieved and we all had a good laugh. (the perils of money first, card second withdrawal system, sheesh!)
That night I thanked the guys with some dinner and I ended up speaking at their school and meeting their English teacher who then took me out to dinner and drinks at the nicest place in town with several other folks eager to meet a foreigner. After nearly three days in Pingxiang on the border between China and Vietnam, I had managed to have a great experience with total strangers through a thick language barrier.
Eventually I passed the border to continue my journey as planned, but not without a nostalgic place in my heart for little Pingxiang in the south of China and my border buddies, who left a lasting impression on a wayward traveler.
Neighborhood
Explore friends, family, friends & family, or entire neighborhood.
Recent Comments
-
CruisesHalongBay said:
Discover the splendors of the bay aboard a wooden junk that combines classic beauty with modern comfort...For more detail, please... read more
on Pirates at Halong Bay -
David Lee Reichbaum said:
[this is good]See Cousin Eric's blog at http://baummer.vox.com/. He's got some great writing and photography from our journeys from Korea to China,... read more
on Halong Bay's Surreal Scenery -
Pauline said:
wow..I can only imagine..had that sinking feeling,many a time..added up to my scatterbrained..ness is that even a word..my Afirkaans is... read more
on Suspense on the Chinese-Vietnamese border -
Pauline said:
And what about the South Africans...Please dont forget..there is a hanfull ...factually...lol. Pauline read more
on First Impressions on South Korea
Hi David,Good welcome back to US and enjoy the excitement of being a tourist at home.Good luck with your studies.... read more
on Some News & Photos